While installing crank sensor i bend the plate
I guess the only thing I can think of is that the timing cover was not on. Earlier that day I checked the timing and re rtv'ed the oil pan. So maybe a foreign object would be a good assumption.. I did have the motor machined at a local reputable machine shop. Normally I would see those bends in those specific locations on the trigger plate from someone trying to force a balance shaft belt around the trigger plate to get it behind it. As TSiAWD said, end play crank walk is a possibility, but one could assume other symptoms would need to be present in that case.
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While I was ordering parts, I ordered the pipe that has the second cadalytic converter and flex pipe. This was also replaced. The timing belt was put on with my assistance to be sure the timing marks were lined up on each pulley. Once we believed it was lined up, we checked even further by manually rotating the engine from the crank and allowing the tensioner to tighten the timing belt. After 3 rotations of the crank, the cam sprockets once again lined up with the marks, and the other marks were spot on too.
The battery was disconnected during the replacement of the parts, so we had to replace the connection before trying to start the vehicle. After cranking the engine a few times and it didn't start, we began checking things again. We found: Cranking sounded normal No spark Fuel pump did not prime while turning the key on I then bought a code reader and tested it on my father and brother's truck - worked well. On my car, it displays "no link". There's no fuel pump activity, no spark, and my code reader can't connect to the computer.
The computer issue is new since the parts were replaced. We checked all fuses, and they seem fine. We also looked for the fuel pump relay, which was reported to be under the radio.
After taking the console apart, I found NO relays there. However, behind the hood release cable, I found 4 relays in a panel. I think one of them is the fuel pump relay, but a search of part numbers didn't confirm this - they all came up as accessory relays. At this point, I'm wondering if there's now a bigger problem, and if this is a dealer-only fix. Either way, we really needed to replace the timing belt, it was overdue.
I'm open to suggestions. TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,, Reputation: Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multi-meter--visual inspection is not good enough. Clean the main ECM ground. Check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting.
Turn the ignition switch to ON, attach the code reader, and check for codes. You may not have turned the ignition switch far enough; hence, "no link.
You've done a lot of good things to that car. We tested the fuses with a test light - on both sides of the fuses, since I wasn't sure which side was the feed. You can also manually shift from drive 1 to drive 2, then normal drive. Feel for any unusual vibration that travels up through the chassis and into your driver's seat. The vibration will be heavy, although not quite as heavy as a failing U-joint. A warped flexplate causes a vibration through all speed ranges, especially if the flexplate has thrown a balance weight.
Set the vehicle in park and apply the emergency brake. Raise the vehicle at both ends and place two jack stands under the rear frame, and two jack stands under the front frame. Start the engine and let it idle. Slide under the vehicle with a stethoscope, and place the stethoscope probe against the underside of the bell housing. Locate the inspection cover on the underside of the bell housing case. It will look like a half-moon piece of sheet steel, connected to the bell housing with two or three bolts.
Use a socket and wrench to remove the bolts, then remove the inspection cover. With the engine idling, use a shop light to illuminate the flexplate and watch the rotation of the teeth end of the plate. A good flexplate does not wobble.
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